August 2008

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Strange But Treasured Experience

For my farewell snack, KK organized a trip to a nearby snack joint, Manmeet Chaat. Since it was not within walking distance, I had the good fortune to once again ride on a motorcycle hours before leaving Pune. I originally thought that I would have plenty of time but my driver insisted on leaving Pune at 19:00 due to the unpredictable Friday evening traffice from Pune to Bombay. Plus, I was caught in a meeting with JB and couldn't make my escape. Anyway, the point is, our group of ten was driving at breakneck speed to beat the clock.

Needless to say, the chaat was one of my best eating experience in this trip. We ordered a selection of different things to share. There was a basket chaat (basket made of fried noodles filled with dahi, fried potato cubes, pomegranate seeds, and lots of other things that I couldn't identify), aloo tiki with dahi (potato croquette drenched in yogurt), puri with dahi, lumps of lentil dumpling with chickpea topping (my memory on this was fuzzy), and of course a very milky foamy cup of coffee. That's not all. Just before we got back on the bikes, SB bought a few tickets for some more puri. This was a lot of fun. The vendor gave me a little bowl made with leaves. KK told me to hold out the bowl and the vendor put a puri (a deep-fried hallowed pastry, a little like choux puff theoretically) filled with spicy sauce and a very watery sour sauce. I sloshed out some of the sauce before eating the whole thing in one bite as per KK's advice. The minute that I bite into the puri, my mouth was filled with the refreshinly cold sauce. It was unlike anything I tasted before. Gosh, I wish I came here sooner!

Looking at my watch, I had only 10 minutes before the driver would come to pick me up at the hotel. KK assured me that I would make it back okay, he said that we would have a brief stop before returning to the hotel. What?! A stop?! I was absolutely worry at this point but he wouldn't hear a word of it. Turned out the surprise was Fabindia. As a souvenir of my visit to the Pune, the guys wanted to get me a kurta. Kurta So there I was, aware of the ticking time, shopping for clothes with the help of a big group of guys. Let me tell you, this was one of my most surreal experience ever but yet, it was such a sweet gesture. After much discussion, I picked a mustard yellow long sleeve kurta. I think it will be very comfortable to wear on humid summer days.

The ride back to the hotel was fast, thanks to KK's driving skills. Everyone at the office showed such generosity in including me as part of the team. I'm really glad to make some friends in the last five weeks.

A Warm Farewell

Today is the last day of my trip to India. Over the last five weeks, I had sampled some great food, met some wonderful people, shopped too much, and had a few adventures...in addition to working long hours and being very productive.

Speaking of shopping, I'm not one who likes to shop for gifts and souvenirs while traveling. I insist that these gifts are often tossed aside and of no particular use. However, as luck would have it, I found many wonderful gifts in Pune that do not scream "I-was-here-souvenir" at very reasonable price. So I'm happy to say that my holiday shopping is close to complete.

My coworkers in the Pune office took me out to lunch and snack to send me off in style. I had a great time hanging out with everyone and glad to be part of the team.

In less than 24 hours, my travel will take me to my favourite city, Paris. A Bientot!

New Caterer At Work

Today's my first day this week to have my meal at the office catered lunch. I was too busy to eat on Monday so I just hastily munched on some bananas and some buns before getting ready for my daily presentation. Tuesday I took a sick day and stayed at the hotel. When I went to the terrace during lunch time today, I was surprised to find a long table full of chafing dishes, each holding a different side dish. We had chana masala, dhal, a spicy potato dish, chicken in a dark gravy, fragrant bismati rice, roti, papadum with a good kick from black pepper, salad, raita, and jelebi for dessert. Not only that, our usual retangular sectional plates are now round and we have napkin holders holding stacks of napkin. It was fancy compared to what I've seen in the last four weeks! I looked around and asked my coworkers if today was some special occasion. Turned out we now have a new caterer. The food was defintely tastier than our previous caterer and this company appeared to be more aware of food safety (storing things in cooler and keeping warm food warm). Lots of my coworker helped themselves to second serving of chicken. I think that was a good sign.

I was absolutely looking forward to snack time today. With the big honcho in town, our refreshment of the day was extra special. I didn't get the name nor the picture for most of these snacks but they were delicious. First, we had a hollowed ball of fried pastry. The server poked a hole in the middle and filled it with yogurt, crunchy noodles, a green chutney, and pomegranate seeds. It was a great mix of sweet and creamy taste. Next, we had cubes of yellow steamed rice cakes. They were alright, just a little bland. We also had wraps made with toasted roti and a filling of paneer tikka and slivers of raw sweet onions. Last but definitely not least, we enjoyed a dessert of warm carrot halva. The halva was delicious. It was the first time that I had halva since arriving in India. Better late than never. I was really hoping to get a second helping but alas, I did not have a chance to. Wow, I now have a new favourite dessert!

Pimp My Ride (Autorickshaw Edition)

The streets in Pune are cluttered with autorickshaws but I can assure you not all rickshaws are created equal.

Last week, I was riding on possibly the slowest rickshaw on the road in Pune. The driver was an old man whose face definitely showed the signs of time. His richshaw was an equally rickety-patched-roof piece of machine. There we were, puttering along North Main Road, while absolutely every car/motorcycle/bicycle/cow/pedestrian on the road sped ahead of us. It gave a whole new meaning to "the scenic route".

Today, I had the luck to ride on a totally pimped out autorickshaw. It had fancy peach-colour cushioned seats. The driver's seat was lined with long-haired fur (how can he bear to sit on that for hours in the hot Indian weather?!). Even the roof was lined with matching colour cushions. I was half-expecting to see a pair of fuzzy dice hanging from the rear-view mirror but of course, that would not be too creative, wouldn't it? Instead, a stuffed monkey in peach was holding on for its dear life at every bumps and turns that we made.

Even if the driver does not want to go all out, personal touches for a cheaper price are always available. I saw one autorickshaw that was draped with garland after garland of flowers. Getting ready for a wedding, perhaps? Of course, we can't possibly miss the ubiquitous stickers on the windshield. I wonder if these stickers contain cheeky messages such as the bumper stickers we see so often in North America? Now that's a good reason for me to learn Hindi.

Just My Luck

Bhakarwadi_1 I bought a bag of bhakarwadi on Friday and brought it with me to my weekend trip. This is a crunchy pinwheel of pastry filled with a fragrant spicy mix. I had no idea that this is actually a Maharashtrian dish nor did I know that I bought it from one of the most famous store for this snack. I only bought it because it was what I liked most from the four unknown crunchy snacks that I sampled a week earlier. I was going to get a few bags and treat my friends back home. When YP saw what I brought, he recognized it immediately and told me that I bought my bag from the original store that made it famous. Wow, I guess I was really lucky.

Masala_dosa Of course no trip is complete without trying out food that I haven't try before. For my Sunday lunch, I had a masala dosa and medu wada from Hotel Milan in Ellora. I've been meaning to have a masala dosa ever since I saw it being served as a huge standing cone at Coffee House in Camp. The paper-thin pancake was filled with a spicy mix of potato & herbs and was served with sambar and coconut chutney. The medu wada was a savory donut that was deep-fried to oblivion. Although tasty, I much prefer the crispness of the dosa.

Medu_wada I suppose every place has their own interpretation of sambar. At this restaurant, the sambar is has a rich tomato taste and chunks of pumpkins and root vegetable that tasted like turnips. I really like it but when it becomes too spicy, the mildness of the cold coconut chutney was just the thing to balance out the flavour.

So many snacks to try, so few calories to spare!

Ajanta & Ellora

I took a weekend trip to Ajanta and Ellora with YP and AS. The caves at both locations have been declared as World Heritage Sites and this turned out to be my fourth and fifth visit this year to a World Heritage site (others were historic monuments in ancient Kyoto, Himeji Castle, shrines & temples of Nikko in Japan last January). There's a Chinese saying that goes "rather than reading ten thousand books, it's better to travel ten thousand miles". I cannot agree more. My travel experience this year has greatly enriched my knowledge on history and culture from different countries.

Needless to say, I was floored by the grandness of the rock-cut temples in Ellora and the intricate frescos depicting myths and history in Ajanta. You can check out some of my pictures in my Ellora/Ajanta: December 2005 photo album.

A Day Of Feasting

I can't believe how much I ate today. Let's see my menu de jour:

Breakfast: aloo paratha, dahi, masala chai

I've been craving aloo paratha for breakfast for the last couple of weeks but I always resisted the urge to indulge in such greasy food. With only one week left in my trip, I gave in and had this delicious flat bread stuffed with mashed potato. The paratha was mildly spicy, just enough to kick start my day.

Lunch: flavoured rice, sliced cabbage, dhal, beans stew

It wasn't very memorable but it was nourishing. I needed the energy to get through with the rest of the day.

Dinner: couscous salad, naan, lentils extraordinaire, sweet samosa

3rd_by_7th I tried out the new restaurant 3rd On 7th today. It has only been open for 2 days but I adore their immaculate open kitchen and the friendliness of the staff. However, most importantly, does the food taste good? I think so. The lentil stew has a good kick of heat that lingered long after the deceivingly mild mouthfuls of lentils are swallowed. I felt so...healthy too. The medley of beans and lentils made for a hearty stew perfect for less than balmy evenings. The naan was okay although I would prefer it to be more fluffy. However, while I was waiting for my order, I was absolutely mesmerized by the deft skill the cook who made naans with a oil-drum-cum-tandoor. The best part of the meal though, was the sweet samosa served with a dip of honey butter. The samosa was bursting with chunky apple filling. Remember those good ol' days when MacDonalds used to serve deep fried apple pies? Yeah, that's what this samosa tasted like. Awesome! I'm thinking of ordering a batch to deliver to the office on my last day here next week.

3rd On 7th

Lane No 7, North Main Road

Koregaon Park, Pune

I Don't Know They Come In Different Sizes

I bought some gorgeous bangles as gifts today. I picked up three sets in totol. There's a silver set that looks exactly like the ones I purchased a few weeks ago. There are also two sets with dangling bracelets and charms. It's a little difficult to describe so here's a picture of me modelling one set:

Bangles

I don't know about you but I think they are absolutely gorgeous. Problem is, I only found out that they come in different sizes when I showed SK my purchases. My old set of silver ones are size 2.8. Both the new silver set and the burgundy set in the picture are size 2.6. The purple set is size 2.4. I can easily slip the bangles on and off my wrist for size 2.8. I have a little difficulty with the 2.6 because it was tight around my knuckles. It's one thing to push and pull one bangle over my knuckles but it's an entirely different experience when I have to do it for 60 times (30 bangles in a set). Hmm, I hope my friends have thin wrists and delicate hands.

Intoxicatingly Floral Fragrance Of Guava

Rasgulla I dropped by Pune Central in the afternoon today to get a backpack and gifts for my friends. Since I was already there, of course I made a stop in Food Bazaar to pick up some snacks. I got a small box of mithai (milk cakes and american masty) for my team at the office from Poonam Sweets. The store clerk remembered me! He asked me if my friends like the pictures I took. This sweets counter looked very well-organized so I got a small box of three rasgullas from the refrigerated section. The rasgullas tasted like balls of baked dough soaked through and through with syrup. I wasn't particularly impress but at least now I know that it tastes like. I see these in almost every sweets store I visited.

Guava I wasn't planning on getting any fruits but as I set foot in the produce section, I was immediately enveloped by an intoxicating floral smell. I knew that smell but for a minute, I just couldn't remember which fruit it belongs to. I looked left and right, hoping in vain to find the source of this sweet fragrance to no avail. Just as I was about to turn away, I remember! Of course, this is guava! I love guava nectar but this smell was so much more potent than those emitting from the pink sugary liquid. But I couldn't see any guavas...those green fist-size fruit with pink or white flesh. I asked one after another store clerks but none of them understood what I was trying to say. After what seemed like an eternity, finally someone knew what I was talking about! He helpfully picked out two great-looking guavas for me and I walked away a happy customer. I can't wait to taste them!

Good Eats On Busy Days

The last few days have been very busy and stressful at work so a proper meal did not rank high on my todo list. Fortunately, even in this busy schedule, I managed to scarve down some very delicous food. Here's a brief look at what I ate:

  • chaat at the dhaba next door: SS took me to the dhaba (neighbourhood eateries that look like a dive) next to our office for snacks in the last two days. I tried their chai, coffee, potato croquette sandwich, and freshly-made samosa. The tea was rich & milky but the best part was to watch the guy brewing a huge pot of tea over low flames in front of the store. The samosa was absolutely delicious! This must be the first time that I had a freshly-made samosa. I want to come back on my own but there's the language barrier to think about...
  • Kathi_rollaloo paneer kathi roll: I wanted to pick up a quick dinner while I was waiting for a server to recover. So today, I went to the kathi roll vendor whose stall is tucked inside a little hole between Hotel BelAir and a construction site on Lane No 6. I ordered an aloo paneer kathi roll to go. It is basically a roti covered with eggs and grilled. The filling is a mixture of potato and paneer with slivers of raw sweet onions and a green chutney. For a grand total of Rs 25, this was one tasty and filling meal. Too bad it was so greasy. Otherwise, I would probably love to eat this more often.
    Kapila_kathi_kabab
  • Gulab_jamun mithai galore: I sampled more mithai from what my coworkers brought. I had a gulab jamun, a burfi, a homemade almond ladoo, and a little fish-shaped mithai made of pressed lentil flours. I came to the conclusion that I like well-made mithai. Most of the ones I had in India are not cloyingly sweet, have complex flavour from spices & nuts & rosewater, and look quite attractive. I know I will miss these when I'm back home.
    Fish_mithai
  • catered lunch: I like our daily catered lunch service. The food is simple yet it is not greasy like the ones they sell in restaurants. Between the flavoured rice, dhal, and our daily choice of sauce-laden dishes, lunch has become my most important meal of the day. I had aloo gobi, some eggplant and tomato dish, and some chana dish. Besides, it's just wonderful to have a hot meal under 15 minutes so I can get back to work.
  • local fruits: I had bananas and one whole seedless papaya. Although they are far from picture perfect, the flavour was intensely wonderful.

No wonder SS said that it is difficult to lose weight while living in Pune!

I Have A Plan!

After quite a bit of procrastination, I've finally put together my plans for the Ellora/Ajanta trip this weekend. I've made arrangements for car and hotel. Now I'm just eagerly waiting for Saturday to come...

Saturday Dec 3, 2005

05:00 depart from office

11:00 arrive at Ajanta, start exploring caves

16:00 depart Ajanta

18:00 arrive at Ellora, check in to Hotel Kailas

Sunday Dec 4, 2005

06:30 caves are open to public at sunrise, start exploring

13:00 depart Ellora

19:00 arrive at Pune office

Since I've changed my original plan of a day trip to an overnight trip, only YP and AS are still interest in going down from our original group of 8. Well, it actually makes transportation and accommodation arrangement easier. YP is fluent in both hindi and marathi. This is shaping up to be a good trip!

Be One With Nature?

I haven't been in close proximity to so many animals before I came to Pune. Here is a tally of my animal sightings:

  • cows: Pune is an urban area yet cows are common occupants of the roads. I walked pass them at arm's length on my way to work. I dodged them on motorcycles (this doesn't read right...I was on the motorcycle...). I feared for their safety when I saw them on busy intersections.
  • camels: I saw two guys riding on camels on M.G. Road last Saturday. Where do they get the camels?!
  • elephant: I was taking a stroll around the Osho area. Just as I was about to turn into the garden, I saw an elephant slowly walking towards me. Of course I had to stop and look! I was standing under a tree and the elephant walked closer and closer until it stopped in front of me. With one smooth move, it torn off a huge bunch of leaves from the tree with its trunk [munch munch]! I just stood there laughing while the shower of leaves kept on falling over my head.
  • donkeys: I only found out last week that there's a herd of donkeys living (and working) next to the hotel where I'm staying. I returned to the hotel at an uncharacteristically early hour one evening (8 or 9, maybe?) and saw a herd of donkeys huddling under a pool of light. I thought I was seeing things until I verified with SS yesterday.
  • dogs: They're everywhere. I don't mind them during the day but I get very nervous at night when they gang up and howl.
  • chickens and roosters: That's the first noise I hear every single morning.
  • gecko: We live on the same floor so I learn to respect its space. I think it learns to respect mine too. Don't you dare to come inside my room.

Calculated Risk Or Just Plain Stupid?

Street_food_scene I didn't know what took over me today but I checked out the little carts selling street food after work today. It was only eight o'clock and I didn't have any presentation scheduled for tomorrow until 15:30. I decided that today's a good day to give the street food a try. I've been gravely warned that I risk getting stomache upset if I eat street food but I figure even if I get sick, I have two weeks to get well before going to Paris anyway.

Street_food_sandwich I bought a little grilled sandwich filled with vegetable spreads, peanuts, crunchy noodles. It was hot (temperature-wise) and mildly spicy. It tasted good. I figured bread and no dairy and no meat ought to be relatively safe. Hmm, it's been well over five hours since I ate and I'm still feeling well.

When I told SS what I ate, he had the expression of seeing someone on her deathbed. I'll find out in the morning if my little calculated risk turn out to be one big-time stupid move.

Fashion Accessories

I just realized something today. Excluding LM who's here as an expat, I'm actually the first girl my company sends over to work at our Pune office. No wonder LM and PG had to help my (clueless male) coworkers to pick out gifts for their wives and girlfriends!

After a couple weekend shopping excursions, I got myself a few fashion accessories that I absolutely adore. I was on the lookout for something not overly ethnic because I want things that I can easily work into my wardrobe. Let's take a look at what I bought:

Fashion_accessories

The pink shawl in the backgroud is my pashmina shawl. You can see the different shades of pink.

The burgundy beaded bag (Rs 1890) in the front is absolutely lovely. The beading is very intricate and there are tassel details at each side of the drawstring. Since my evening outfits are predominately black and simple in design, such a flamboyant bag can make quite a statement.

The frame black silk purse with flower embroidery (Rs 1090) is more understated. I love the antique detailing of the frame and chain. There was another similar purse in the store with the entire front filled with embroidery but I think this one works better with my daily outfits.

The set of silver bangles (Rs 379) is quite a find. LM showed me the set she bought a week earlier and I had to get a set for myself. Notice that some of the bangles have dangling pieces hanging from it. They make such a nice sound when the bangles knock against each other while I move! There were also quite a few other styles available at the store...some with colour beads and fancier dangly pieces. I haven't seen this style available in Toronto stores yet. I can't decide if I want to get a few more sets for gifts.

Holiday season is coming up guys. If you have trouble finding a good gift for the ladies in your life, perhaps I can help you to pick out a unique gift in India!

I'm At It Again

To cure myself of my recent fit of blues, I woke up this morning with weekend plans hatching in my mind. What if I just hop on a plane to Delhi for a weekend trip? I really want to visit the Taj Mahal...I mean, how often do I come to India anyway?! I've already made plans for next weekend (i.e. my last weekend in India for this trip) so this weekend's really my only choice. I walked into the closest travel agency and asked about tickets. I could make it to the 13:35 flight and return around the same time on Sunday with a reasonably-priced ticket. I called up LM and she told me that I better call up her travel agent to arrange for car and hotel because the drive from airport to the destination would take a good four hours. I talked over my plans with her travel agent and at the end, we both agreed that I would be better off going on another day. Well, so much for spontaneity.

I went back to the hotel to pick up my Pune travel guidebook. With map in hand, I flagged down an autorickshaw and off I went shopping on M.G. Road. This 2km stretch of M.G. Road is one of the central area for shopping. I guess I arrived at the wrong time (siesta time) because most of the stores were closed. No matter, I amused myself by checking out the ice-cream shops and sweet shops.

Pasteur_falooda At Pasteurs, the shop was crowed with families and couples enjoying ice-cream cones and snacks. Where there's a local crowd, there must be (reasonably) good food. From their extensive menu, I ordered a pista falooda. I knew that pista is pistachio and falooda is a type of drink. Unfortunately, they ran out of pista so I changed my order to rose falooda instead. The falooda was a milky concoction of rose syrup, some yellowish vermicelli-like stuff, and a swirl of soft-serve ice-cream for a grand total of Rs25. It tasted just like it looked...sugary.

Karachi_sweet_mart Next stop was Karachi Sweet Mart for some mithai (i.e. sweets, check out my ever-expanding vocabulary). Their shop was totally devoid of labels so I kept on firing questions at the store clerk and he held his own by reciting off name after name of merchandise. The selection was noticeably smaller than Poonam Sweets at Pune Central so I only bought a small box of mango barfi and sonpapri, both of which I tried before and liked. But hey, being so conservative is not my style so I also bought a few savory snacks too. From their selection of deep-fried crunchy stuff, I got a mini samosa (the filling's dry), a mini pinwheel, a cluster of fried leaves, and a round disc of flaky pastry. I was a little tired of questioning the store clerk so I used the good ol' finger-pointing. They were all very delicious but sorry, I have no clue what I ate.

According to my guidebook, one of the "Pune Specialty" is potato chiwda and wafers from Budhani. Well, a store that specializes in potato chips (more fried crunchy snacks! Can you see a pattern here?) is kinda interesting. There were indeed lots of choices...chips of tomato, cheese, or masala flavour were competing shelf space with window wafers (waffle cut chips), rings, twists, and every other shapes imaginable. I got a small bag of masala wafers that I have yet to try.

Mg_road_5 In between all these eating, I actually walked up and down M.G. Road a couple of times. Like I said, it was siesta time so not many stores were open. However, the walk was quite enjoyable. The scenery on M.G. Road is a testament of how the old and the new mesh together in India. Street_animal_2 In between the old houses and storefronts, there would be an occasional modern building in all its reflective glass glory. Among the cars and autorickshaws and motorcycles, there would be the odd cows roaming freely on the street or people riding on camels. Just around the corner from the gleaming Nike and Addidas boutiques, I could shop and haggle at the narrow lanes of Fashion Street (don't go if you're claustrophobic). Everything looked so haphazard yet they strangely fit together.

Coffee_house_falooda_1 Of course I wasn't done with eating just yet. I was walking on Moledina Road when I spotted Coffee House. One look at the decor and it immediately reminded me of the "tea restaurants" of Hong Kong built around the mid-60s. Perhaps it was the British colonial influence? Doesn't really matter to me because it was busy with locals so I had to try. From the extensive menu, I ordered the Coffee House Falooda (Rs 75). I think I was infatuated with faloodas today. At three times the price of the one I had earlier, I found out soon enough why. That was one fancy drink! There were red gelee, some vermicelli-stuff, some tapioca-like stuff, cubes of apple, pineapple, papaya, dried fruits, nuts, ice-cream, and wafers. Wow!

After a busy day of shopping/eating excursion, I'm now feeling a little better. "Work hard, play hard" is good but I think "work hard and play even harder" is better. I'm now energized to plan for my adventure next weekend.

Pasteurs Ice-Cream and Cakes

M.G. Road, Camp (across the street from The Bombay Store)

Pune, India

Karachi Sweet Mart

Aurora Towers, M.G. Road, Camp

Pune, India

Budhani Bros. Waferwala

323, M.G. Road, Block No.5

Pune, India

Coffee House

2 Moledina Road, Camp

Pune, India

New Find: Drool basically desserts

Since the first day I arrived at Pune, I have been waiting for Drool to open. I walked past its still-in-renovation storefront many times on my way to Naughty Angels Cafe. Every time, I was enticed by its tagline "basically desserts". Although most restaurants have a dessert menu and there are a couple of bakeries in Koregaon Park, a cafe that specializes in dessert is certainly welcome anytime in my books.

I was walking about in Koregaon Park trying to decide where to go for dinner when I saw that Drool is finally open. Since I was in the mood for a light dinner, I walked in without hesitation. I like the minimal but welcoming decor. Moreover, being a big Robbie Williams fan that I am, I was happy to hear them blasting "Life Through A Lens" on their stereo. I chatted with the lovely owner Natasha and found out that they've only been open for three days and the store's her baby. I could tell that they've put a lot of personal touches into the cafe from the small details such as the low wooden tables and stools with cheerful red-checkered cushions.

I ordered a grilled sandwich of mint chutney and cheese filling (Rs 30). Natasha was a little worry (can you tell I look like a foreigner?) that I wouldn't like the mint chutney so she helpfully suggested me to try the egg and mayo sandwich instead. Not to be deterred, I stayed with my choice and enjoyed the sandwich immensely. The mint chutney was a little spicy but refreshing at the same time. Natasha asked me if I'm vegetarian and I replied that I don't have to be. She enthusiastically told me that I really should try their chicken sandwich next time. Also, she has plans to introduce set lunches including some pasta dishes. I tried their mango souffle (Rs 30) for dessert which is basically a whipped mango mousse. It's got a nice mango flavour and the whipped texture kept it light.

I'm sure I'll come back for lunch very soon. I'm looking forward to try their savory pies and other sandwiches.

Drool basically desserts

A1, Rahoul Terrace, Lane No. 7

Koregaon Park, Pune

Pashmina Shawl

Before I left for India, I was shopping for a pashmina shawl in Toronto. More accurately, a pashmina-like shawl because I really don't want to fork over money for the real thing. A few years ago (um, more like five or six years, actually), pashmina shawl was THE thing to have. You could just about spot every girl on the street with one of these candy-colour shawls draped over their shoulders. Well, there really isn't that many of these Himalyan goats roaming about so most of the "pashmina" accessories in the shops are actually made with a mixture of yarns or worse, man-made materials.

I knew exactly what I want and I found what I was looking for at The Bombay Store today of a reasonable price and quality. It is 70% pashmina/30% silk blend in a shade of pink that changes from pale to vibrant. It costs approximately 60% of what I would have to pay in Toronto.

This shawl will go into my collection of classic and enduring accessories that I expect to use for a long time to come.

18:00 Is Snack Time

In addition to our catered lunch, we are served snacks at 18:00 everyday. I haven't been here long enough but I think we have a rotating weekly menu. Here's a look at some of the snacks we enjoy:

Rice Cakes

Idli (steamed rice cake) is my favourite. The rice cakes have a wonderfully soft texture that picks up the sauce, sambar, very well. I usualy take two. The pale white sauce on the side is coconut chutney, I think. As far as I'm concern, that's one complete meal!

Potato_croquette_snack_1

Deep-frying seems to be the norm here. First up, we have a potato croquette served with your choice of garnishes such as sweet onions, sauce with peas, and ketchup. Thanks to MS for letting me take a picture of his snack. No, I didn't try it. I'm not a big fan of deep-frying.

Fried Potato Bread

Next, we have white bread topped with mash potato (masala, of course) served with the ubiquitous ketchup. It was very greasy because I could squeeze oil out of it as I poked it with my fork. Sad to say I actually ate this despite my contempt for fried food because I was very hungry. Other than the grease factor, it was not bad.

We also had deep-fried sweet chilis a few days earlier. Apparently it was popular among my coworkers. For the non-fried option, I remember eating a yellowish wheat gruel two days ago. It was like a savory porridge which was filling and tasty.

There you have it, our weekly snack menu. I wish our Toronto office have something similar. Isn't it such a good idea?

Traveller's Dilemma

Syrupy_sweets1 It'll only be two more weeks before I leave India for Paris and now I have a dilemma. It would feel like such a waste not to do more sightseeing in the upcoming days but I'm just not in the mood to do so. Work is stressful as usual but the recent events happening back home have me worry. In addition, I've been feeling under the weather so all I want to do on weekends is rest. Everyone's been telling me about all these awesome places that I should visit before I leave plus stories of such-and-such coworkers who visited these places while they were working in the Pune office. It almost feels like I'm obligate to do some sightseeing too. I am so tired.

Syrupy_sweets2 On a brighter note, I tried a few more sweets in the last few days and I've grown to like masala chai. Masala chai is very sweet and milky but the good ones are balanced by strongly-brewed tea and a healthy dose of spices to give it a nice kick. I know that I'll miss these when I'm back in Toronto.

Syrupy_sweets3 The sweets in the picture were brought in by my coworker RS. He didn't know the names either because he chose these sweets after an extensive tasting session at the store! The yellow piece at the top was soaked with rose-flavoured syrup. it wasn't really my cup of tea but the subtly of the rosewater was nice. I like the fact that a lot of Indian sweets make use of rosewater, pistachio, cashew, and cardamom. Those are some of my favourite flavour profiles in the dessert world.

Work Those Legs

(the story so far...)

Just StartingAt long last, we began our climb to Dhaak. From the village of Jambholi, we started hiking up a dirt road that led us to the mountains. The trail was well-marked though covered with loose stones. It was a gentle slope but our group of 16 quickly split into two. It was easy to keep up with the group in front and I was happy to finally take in some fresh air and much needed exercises. Before long, I really wished I was wearing hiking boots instead because my recent ankle injury was bothering me. Without the ankle support of boots, I could feel slight pain in my right ankle with every step I took in my indoor running shoes.

Temple EntranceAs we hiked a little further, we came to a bend with a good view of a small temple ahead. I could hear faint noise of a ringing bell in the distance. We walked up to the temple, it was indeed very small and it was guarded by a stone statue at the entrance. I took off my shoes and stepped inside. In the main hall, here was a bell that hung from the ceiling. So that's where the noise came from!

MountainOur journey continued. Slowly but steadily, the trail became steeper and less well-marked. Every now and then, we would reach a plateau offering an endless view of the mountains. It was exhilarating to stand at the edge and take in the natural beauty in front of me. KK pointed out the mountain in the distance and described in excruciating detail how the climb would be dangerous. I didn't need any persuasion...the mountain looked like a large piece of rock with nothing to hold! Doing as the locals do, of course we would make our way up without ropes and such. This was shaping up to be quite an adventure.

PlateauWe hiked past trees and cactus and fields and rocks. I was mesmerized by all the unique vegetation around me. Living in the bustle and hustle of the cities in India is nice but it felt so refreshing to finally be in a place where I didn't need to worry about dodging motorcycles and autorickshaws. As we hiked higher and higher up the mountain, I was stopped by a whiff of mint in the air. I looked around and found many wild mint growing about. That was such a pleasant surprise!

ForestAfter approximate an hour and a half of hiking, we found ourselves in the shade of trees in a forest which was a welcome change because heat of the midday sun was becoming uncomfortable. To continue on the trails, I had to hold on to the tree roots and rocks on the side. More often than not, the loose rocks and gravel on the trail made it slippery and I was careful to ensure that I didn't lose my footing. Some members of our group started to get tired and I could hear the occasional heavy breathing of my coworkers trying to keep up with the group. At this time, something happened which sent a tremour of discomfort through our entire group. We heard a loud bang echoed throughout the forest that sounded awfully like a gunshot. We didn't pay much attention to it at first but when we heard it again a few minutes later, I was getting antsy. I didn't think the (assumed) gunshot was aimed at anybody but stray bullets could hit anyone and anything in this dense forest. Putting my worry aside, I continued the hike up to the top.

Down Rocky CreviceWhen we finally reached the top of the landing out of the forest, we were met by a group of locals on their way back. They were igniting firecrackers as each of their member reappeared from a climb up the rocky mountain. So that's what the "gunshots" all about (not that I was relieved...I jumped every time they fired one of those). I thought at this point, that's where our group would split up with the novices waiting for the advance trekkers to climb to the summit. Our leader DT had other plans in mind. He told us that we could climbed down the narrow rocky crevice and we could wait at one of the caves just beyond the bottom of the climb. I stared down at the 35-40 feet descend and had a sinking feeling in my stomache...at least now I could put my rusty indoor rockclimbing skills to use.

(to be continue...)

Drive To Jambholi

So exactly what did I do on Sunday? Well...that's a long story.

A group of coworkers organized a trekking trip to Dhaak (near Kamshet) in Lonavala. I was dying for some fun last week so of course I jumped at the chance to get out of the city. I wasn't too worry about the details either. As far as I was concern, I only cared about meeting up with the group in the morning and getting back to the hotel in the evening. Everything in between was just details, right?

When I signed myself up for a trekking trip, I thought it was just another term for hiking. I knew that we were in for a difficult climb but I had confidence in my fitness level. Besides, I was very excited about the fact that we would travel by motorcycles!

To prepare for this trip, I packed a small lunch of peanut butter sandwiches, granola bars, tangerines, and a litre of water. Although my coworkers planned to stop for food at various stops during the trip, I wanted to be on the safe side. SS gave me some sage advice: "When it comes to eating, your sense of adventure should be proportional to your proximity to clean facilities". 5 hours of bike ride plus a whole day in the wilderness do not spell clean washroom to me.

Bike_Crew After some delay in getting everybody together in the morning (c'mon, getting 16 people to meet at 7am on a Saturday morning is difficult), our pack of 9 bikes began our journey to Kamshet on the old Mumbai-Pune Highway. Although I was only a passenger, it was aboslutely exhilarating to travel on a motorcycle especially when traveling together in such a large group. While we were still in the city, our bikes had to skillfully weave in and out of the traffic. At times, we were so close to the cars and trucks beside us that I wasn't sure we could squeeze between them. Once we were out of the city, there were noticeably less pollution but we now had the potholes to worry about. At times, we got squeezed off to the side of the road by bigger cars and had to drive off road until we found a small ramp to take the bikes back on the paved road.

KamshetI wasn't keeping track of time but we arrived at Kamshet after about an hour drive. We stopped for snacks and stocked up on water. Before long, our bikes made a turn to a winding country road. The scenery was lovely. Farmhouses and fields were passing by us on both sides of the road. Instead of cars, we now had to dodge cows! At one point, a herd of cows were just slowly walking toward us taking up the entire width of the road. Weaving between the cows on a motorcycle...centainly not a typical experience for a city girl like me!

Candy_SumitraAfter over an hour of driving, we finally arrived at the village Jambholi. From this point on, we had to start hiking to reach the top of the mountain. DT arranged with the store so we could park our bikes and store our helmets. The storeowner brought us plates of goa (looked like yellowish rice gruel to me) and tea. When everyone's filled up on food, we were ready to trek.

(to be continue...)

Gone Trekkin'

I went trekking with a group of coworkers today. Although my adventure in India has yet to end, I'm sure this is one of my most memorable experience here. I'll write more about it soon. In the meantime, check out my Dhaak photo album for a blow-by-blow look at our crazy day.

I think I pass the Pune office initiation with flying colours. My coworkers here are quite impress that I made it to the end of the trip with so much energy to spare!

Merlot

Date of Visit: Nov 19, 2005 (Saturday)

Walked in for 5 at 22:15, seated immediately

Address: Lane 5 (off North Main Road), Koregaon Park, Pune, India

Cocktail + Appetizer + Main Course + Dessert for 5: Rs 4000 (tips and tax included)

Food

Baked flatbread with three dips

  • flatbread had good flavour on its own but it was too tough. Took me a bit of effort to break it apart.
  • I didn't try any of the dips though

Bahama Mama

  • rum, coconut liquer, pineapple juice
  • refreshing but the bartender was very light-handed with the alcohol

Assorted Crostini

  • sauteed mushroom crostini tasted like mushroom. Nothing special.
  • roasted red pepper crostini was sweet. It tasted like it's suppose to be...

Seafood Platter

  • assortment of thai fish cake, smoked salmon, mussels with a spicy sauce, and grilled shrimps
  • the grilled shrimps were excellent. It was done just right with a good spicy kick. If only they serve this as a main course...

Honey Mustard Chicken served with Mash Potato and Mixed Vegetables

  • you probably wonder why I choose something as boring as honey mustard chicken. In short, the main course menu was boring. There were mushroom crepe, thai green curry, potato gnocchi with sage butter, three cheese ravioli, chicken in thai spices, roasted lamb with rosemary for 2, grilled tenderloin, fettucini carbonara, spaghetti bolognese, Goa curry (choice of shrimp, salmon, and chicken), and a Goa king prawn dish served with rice in a tangine. I work in Salad King so there's no way I'm ordering thai dishes in India. The choice of pasta did not look exciting either. Since I was not in the mood for the Goa dishes, there's not much in the menu to choose from.
  • Chicken was overcooked and it was way too sweet.
  • Mash potato was shaped with ice-cream scoop. I expect better from an upscale restaurant.
  • Vegetable was good. It was an assortment of cauliflower, brocoli, zuchinni, green beans, and carrots.

Chocolate Souffle

Service

Service was attentive although the waiters were not too knowledgeable and were occasionally clueless. At one point, the waiter was serving the rice from the tangine to my dining companion who sat in the middle of our table of six. I have no objection of serving except he was leaning over my plate for a long period of time which was just a little annoying.

We were a little puzzled when the cosmopolitan that we ordered came in a rocks glass. When we asked the waiter about it, he mumbled something about it was what we ordered without really answering our question. Shouldn't he at least make the effort to check with the bartender?

All in all, their hearts were in the right place. It's just that I expect a lot more refinement in such restaurants.

Overall Impression

Merlot is open only a month ago. Given such a stunning looking interior design and having a celebrity food writer Karen Anand as the consultant, I came in with high expectation. However, the food turned out to be comparable to The Keg in terms of design and execution. However, in comparison to other restaurants in Pune, I can understand its appeal. For the time being, it is just a seen-and-be-seen restaurant to me that I will come back when I crave western food.

I Shop And I Eat

JY is right again. Going to Pune Central is a good idea.

Pune_central After a very leisurely morning (sleeping certainly counts as leisure), I took an autorickshaw to Pune Central, one of the largest department store in Pune. The minute I set my foot on the steps leading to the entrance, I was surrounded by the familiar smell of a department store. I kid you not, department stores have a distinctive smell of cosmetics and people that is quite universal. All the usual suspects at the cosmetic departments were there in addition to a very large fragrance selection. However, that's mostly where the international brand names representation ends (okay, except for the denim, sporting goods, and luggage department). The fashion department is set up as little boutiques each selling a selection of one brand. By North American standard, clothes are really inexpensive. New_outfit I got myself a nice outfit in preparation for the trekking trip tomorrow. For comparison purposes, here's a breakdown on the price:

  • hooded sweatshirt: Rs 900
  • cargo pants: Rs 1400
  • belt: Rs 450
  • hat: Rs 300

Okay, so it doesn't add up to THAT cheap. Mind you though, I was shopping at the higher end of the price spectrum in the store. I can centainly vouch for the quality of the merchandise. For a comparable quality and style (as you all know, more details and more design mean more money), I know that I cannot get an outfit like this at a department store. I also got a set of silver bangles with lots of danggly ornaments. Very very pretty indeed. In any case, I'm happy with my purchases.

Pune_central_bakery The top floor of Pune Central is the supermarket Food Bazaar. Oh, how I miss supermarkets! Compared to the mom-and-pop corner stores that sell EVERYTHING around our office, I was happy as a clam the moment I reached Food Bazaar. Browsing at a supermarket is one of my favourite activities during travel. First thing first, I was attracted to the sweets department. The store clerk gave me sample after sample of Indian sweets but the truth was, I didn't need the sample to be convinced of making my purchases. Assorted_sweets Although my coworkers bring in sweets all the time, I would like to try a large variety so I already had my heart set on getting a box of assorted sweets.

I didn't have very good experiences with Indian sweets while I was in Toronto. The ones that I sampled were mostly too sweet and drenched with too much syrup. Therefore, Indian sweets are such pleasant surprises to me. My favourite is the yellow piece on the left. It is a mango barfi (milk fudge treat) which was delicious with the sweetness of mango fruit. The diamond shape piece is a cashew katli (love the nutty taste). The round dark brown pieces was logs made with dried figs and studded with pistachios. The round ball is a coconut laddoo (too sweet but made with fresh coconut shreds). The diamond at the top is a sugar-free dried figs katli. The rectangular piece on the upper right corner was a milk cake. I really enjoy the sweets made with cooked-down milk. This method of cooking highly concentrates the sugar resulting in a naturally sweet product.

Shopping's good.

Poonam Sweets

1013/2 New Nanapeth

Near Nishat Tokies, Pune

Suspending Reality

I delivered one-and-a-half hour presentations both yesterday and today and now I lost my voice. Add to the strain are my recent recovery from a cold and the serious air pollution in Pune, so now I have a nasty lingering cough. However, my stress level is finally coming down as far as work is concern. I had been extremely productive in the past two weeks in Pune and I am beginning to see the result of all my hardwork. What better way to rewrad myself than a weekend of fun and relaxation?

PG got us tickets to watch the new Harry Potter movie for the 19:45 show this evening in one of the newest movie theatre in Pune. Before we made our way into the theatre, we stopped for snacks at McDonald's. You would think food from McDonald's the same everywhere but of course not. Beef is absolutely nowhere to be found on the menu. Instead of good old hamburger, we have McAloo Tiki (deep fried potato pattie). Want a BigMac? How about a Taj Mahal Chicken instead? My favourite apple pie? Well, I can make do with pizze filling. Fortunately, the old standby of Filet o' Fish and McChicken are still featured prominently. Price is of course ridiculously affordable. Rs20 for a McAloo Tiki and Rs7 for a softserve ice-cream cone (approx exchange rate Rs38=1CDN). I smuggled a McAloo Tiki into the cinema. Although I still crave a hamburger, I admit it is quite tasty too.

Once inside the cinema, I could swear I was back in Canada. The cinema is just like any one of the new multiplexes in North America. Once the lights dimmed and the movie started playing, I was entirely surrounded by the make-believe world of wizardary until the movie was interrupted by a screen annoucing intermission. What the heck?!

I talked to PG about this feeling of suspending reality and she absolutely agrees. She's been an expat for over a year and she told me that when she first arrived in Pune, it was quite depressing to come out of a movie theatre. For a brief two hours, it felt so much like home only to be loudly reminded that it's not the moment the lights come on.

Paneer_cafreal_sizzler After the movie, our group decided to have a late dinner at Touche The Sizzler on MG Road. Sizzler is a very common dish found in Pune. It is basically a hot cast-iron plate loaded with fries, noodles with gravy, assorted vegetables, and choice of protein (paneer, chicken, beef, seafood) cooked with different spices. I ordered a paneer cafreal. It's a lot of (junk) food but sometimes it just feel nice to indulge a bit.

Touche The Sizzler

7 Moledina Road, Pune

There's A Gecko Outside My Room

Before I left Toronto, I got lots of useful advice from JY on what it's like to live in Pune. JY is a coworker of mine who worked in the Pune office for about two months last summer. Aside from all the practical tips on how to ensure my own safety, there was one thing he mentioned that particularly worries me: geckos and bugs.

Since I moved to Canada ages ago, I haven't seen a gecko unless it is imprisoned in a glass container. However, I do remember those lazy summer nights in Hong Kong (I was only a kid back then) when I would see the occasional gecko crawled its way across the wall in our home. And who can forget the tail that would fall off when my dad tried to chase it with rolled-up newspaper in hand?

This evening, I was about to unlock the door of my hotel room when I stared eye to eye with a gecko sitting leisurely on the door frame. It was about the size of my palm and certainly one of the biggest one I've ever seen. Should I shoo it away or should I come back in a minute with the hope that it would be gone? I paced back and forth from door to staircase with indecision. Meanwhile, the gecko didn't seem to sense my panic at all. It just stayed in the very same spot with absolutely no intention to move. In the end, I decided that I would take a chance. I stretched my arms as much as I could while standing away from the door as far as possible. Once the door was unlocked, with one swift move, I ducked inside my door and slammed the door shut.

Phew! The gecko was fast but I was faster. It was left outside the door.

Finally, Some Social Activities

I'm tired and not feeling so great. This cold has proven to be a real drag.

Went to The Great Punjab for dinner again in the evenng with PB and SB. I had Mushroom Lazeez (grilled stuffed mushrooms) with Aloo Paratha (flatbread stuffed with mashed potatos). A little too greasy for my taste. I think I will stick with their "Weight Watcher Menu" next time.

On the bright side, I've finally made some plans outside of work. This Friday, I'll be going to the cinema with LM, SS, PG, and TG to watch the new Harry Potter movie. On Sunday, I will be going trekking with DT and some coworkers to a place called Dhaak, near Kamshet, in Lonavala. DT promised it'll be a difficult climb. The plan is to go on motorcycles to a village called Jamboli (2 1/2 hour drive), trek for 5 to 6 hours, and return to Pune on the same day. I wish I had brought my lovely CamelBak with me. Alas, I don't even have a backpack. Gotta shop for one this Saturday.

Office Food (Pune Edition)

I spend a lot of time at the office. I mean A LOT. Naturally, that means I eat at the office more frequent than I care to count. In Toronto, I typically like to eat my simple lunch of bread, fruit, and yogurt at my desk, occasionally breaking the pattern with takeout from the Ilalian cafeteria downstairs. Here in Pune, we have a very different arrangement.

Lunch_1116 Our office has a top-floor terrace that we use as our cafeteria. Every day at 13:00 and 18:00, we are served lunch and snack by a local "catering company" (I use that term loosely). On a long table, we first pick up a stainless steel compartmentalized plate...think frozen dinner aluminum tray but not disposable. There is usually rice, flatbread, something with lots of sauce, dhaal (lentils), raita (yogurt with diced vegetables), salad, and a dessert. It's a nice opportunity to socialize but at the same time, it's hard not to associate in my mind a different settng where everyone's lining up for food with tray in hand...

Rice_flakes_snack_1As for snack, it striked me as amusing first time I heard it (I had a image of second breakfast from Lord of the Rings in my head) but it actually makes sense. Most of my coworkers in the Pune office work late to accomodate for the timezone difference with the Toronto office. Of course we don't want everyone distracted by hunger, don't we? There's more variety with the snacks. A couple of days ago, we had steamed rice cakes served with a lentil sauce. I like the texture of the rice cake and according to my coworkers, they were excellent too. However, we don't always have such good luck. There would be times when practically every one at the office would take one look at the food and turn away. Yesterday, for example, we were served rice flakes. The terrace was almost empty because nobody really wanted to eat it! Other times, the snack would be some kind of deepfried items. Those I avoid.

Laddoo In addition to the catered meals, my coworkers also bring sweets to the office all the time. It's perfect chance for me to sample many varieties of traditional indian sweets. Malai I had these orange laddoo today. Laddoo is a generic term for a little ball. These laddoo are made with couscous held together with lots of syrup. I also had malai. They are cakes made with grated chickpeas pressed with cream and lots of cardomom. I like it better than the laddoo.

Becoming A Regular

It's only been less than two weeks but I've already become a regular patron at a couple of restaurants around the office. How do I know? Three letters: I-O-U. I understand that being a foreigner, it's quite easy to be recognized particularly because the area of Pune where we're situated feels like a closely-knitted community. However, I was amazed when the owners of the restaurants remember my food preference (no grilled sandwiches please) and ask me how I find the cookies I purchased last time based on their recommendation. Admittedly, I ate at this restaurant four times last week and purchased takeout pastry from this bakery three times. So yeah, I would consider myself a regular too.

Last night, after a late night at the office, I was walking back to the hotel. Someone called me from a car and it was the owners of the restaurant. They were heading home after work and offered me a ride seeing it was rather late. Since I was only a few steps away from the hotel, I politely declined. But at the same time, I really appreciate the gesture.

Sharakara_upperi YP came back from vacation today after visiting his home town in Kerala and he brought in sweets to treat us at the office. The brown morsels in the paper bag are called sharakara upperi and is a specialty of Kerala. They tasted crunchy, nutty, and full of cardamom flavour. I first didn't like it too much but after a couple of pieces, it really grew on me. The yellow chips in the middle were banana chips. The pink pieces at the front are coconut candies. The coconut candies were quite tasty.

My cold is getting better although I now have a case of runny nose. I think I luck out this time for not coming down with anything worse. It would be such a drag to get sick. I didn't sleep well last night though...my new neighbour at the hotel is a family with screaming little kids who either like to play in the hallway or the walls are just very thin...

I've started eating at the office-provided lunch and snack meal service. I'll write more about it next time after I get some decent pictures. It's actually quite interesting.

Not Feeling So Well

I think I'm getting a cold. I have a bad case of headache and sore throat over the weekend. I hope this is not going to get worse, I still have lots of work to do and I can't afford to get sick.

I ended up spending the weekend in the most unimaginative way possible. I slept in and worked in the office in the afternoon. So much work to catch up. I'm hoping that once I delivered my current documentation project by the end of this week, I will have an easier time. I still keeping my hopes up.

Sweet_chariot On the bright side, I had two good meals today. For a late breakfast/early lunch, I went to Sweet Chariot Cafe. I ordered a banana chocolate smoothie, mushroom croissant, and mushroom quiche. To my surprise, the croissant was flaky and buttery. Not bad at all. Well, the quiche was a little soggy and I much prefer quiche with cheese lining the crust to keep the crust flaky. That being said, I still enjoyed the quiche very much. The smoothie, on the other hand, was not to pleasant. If it wasn't for the Malarone (taken with dairy), I wouldn't have order it at all. I also ordered a vegetarian pizza roll/bun for takeout. It was nicely spicy and the bread was deliciously soft.

I went to The Great Punjab for dinner. It's a fancy restaurant but I like the food there. I ordered a mango masala, tawa sabzi, kabuli naan, and gulab jamun. The mango masala was a sweet and sour drink in a deep leafy green colour. I have no idea where the mango came into play. I didn't like the taste too much on its own but when I drank it with the rest of my meal, it was rather refreshing. The tawa sabzi is a mixture of cauliflower, okra, paneer, mushroom, and potato cooked in dried spice. It was very flavourful and I prefer this style of cooking over the dishes drenched in sauce. The kabuli naan is a piece of naan topped with a mixture of dried fruit and nuts. It was very very delicious. I highly recommend this item. For dessert, I honestly had no idea what gulab jamun was and I still wasn't sure after eating it. In a small bowl of syrup, there were four small balls of cooked dough of cardamom and rosewater flavour. The texture of the dough was nothing like what I had before. There's not much gluten development but yet the dough held together nicely. I'm neutral about this dish.

Sweet Chariot Cafe

Shop No 1, MIT Corner

Koregaon Park, North Main Road, Pune

The Great Punjab

5, Jewel Tower, Off North Main Road

Koregaon Park, Pune

Autorickshaw

Rickshaw_front There are autorickshaws everywhere in Pune. They are the equivalent of taxis and for the most part, a very convenient form of transportation. I had my first rickshaw ride yesterday and it was quite a memorable experience. Each rickshaw takes up to three passengers. Instead of a car, I would describe it as a motocycle with three wheels, backseat, and a lid. Like most taxi drivers around the world, rickshaw drivers are probably the most aggressive breed of drivers on the road. When it comes to overcharging foreigners, they have quite a few tricks up their sleeves.

Rickshaw_back To prepare me for the ride, LM asked if I have my own handkerchief. At first I had no idea but then she explained that the pollution is so bad on the road it is best to cover my nose and mouth with a handkerchief during the trip. Makes perfect sense. We went to the street corner by their apartment and LM negotiated with the driver. Apparently, the driver asked for a flat rate which was obviously overpriced and LM asked him to charge by the meter instead. When he refused, we walked away and attempted to flag another rickshaw instead. Only then did the driver agreed to use the meter.

Once we got on the rickshaw, it was a bumpy ride. The driver pretended not to know his way to our destination and LM yelled at him with directions. The driver took an especially long route on purpose and that road was completely covered with potholes. By the time we finally arrived, the meter was the price he originally asked for. These are the kind of little things that can really annoy.

Eating In Pune

After 5 days of working in Pune, I have yet to go around much except for the little area in Koregaon Park bound by North Main Road, Lane 5, 6, 7, and 8, all within walking distance from hotel to office. It's Friday evening so I finally take the time to read up a little on Pune.

This neighbourhood in Pune apparently has quite a bit of Western influence mainly due to the large number of Western tourists attracted here by the (in)famous Osho Meditation Resort. When my coworker PB from Toronto asked if I've been there yet, I could only shake my head in ignorance. Then he proceeded to tell me that this is a fancy ashram of a guru whose's theory of sex leading to spiritual enlightening is quite controversial. More on this on another day.

Anyway, the point is, there are a lot of eateries around our office that serve international fares. With a daily allowance from my company and no kitchen to speak of, I have more than enough opportunities to try them out (that's three meals a day, baby).

Over the last few days, I've already wrote about my experience at The Great Punjab, Mogini Cakes, Merlot, Natural Ice-Cream, and of course, my daily takeout/room service from Punjab Rasoi. Naughty_angel_omelet One of my favourite places for light lunch and dinner is Naughty Angel Cafe. The owners are super nice and the place is comfortably casual. I love their sandwiches, freshly-squeezed juice, omelets, and cookies. I had their masala vegetable omelet (served with toasts, roasted potatos, and the ubiquitous ketchup) and litchi bubbly freshner for lunch today. I have already been there three times since I arrived in Pune. Their vegetable club sandwich is also excellent.

Although there's a Pizza Hut directly across the street from our office, I prefer the thin-crust pizza at Il Fungo Magico next door. I had the Bombay pizza for dinner tonight. It is topped with spicy tomato sauce, mushrooms, onion, mozzarella, paneer, and coriander. The crust is not as thin as I would like but the hint of spiciness in the sauce was delicious. I can see myself ordering pizza from them again for those late-night coding marathons...

Malaka_spice_drink I walked into Malaka Spice for lunch by accident. I could not figure out what kind of food they serve based on their name. Turns out they have a menu of southeast asian dishes (Chinese, Japaneses, Korean, Thai, Vietnamese, Malaysia). Well, if I had known, I probably wouldn't go in the first place but since I already sat myself down, I figured it wouldn't hurt. Malaka_spice_lunch I was glad to find dishes made with lots of visible large pieces of vegetables. I keep to a vegetarian diet while I'm in Pune but I often find the food leaning towards more carbs than vegetables. The Crunchy Vegetable Stirfry with Black Bean and Sambal Sauce was alright and the roti was tasty. I wouldn't mind coming back for my vegetable fix. The mocktail in the picture above is called Knight In White Satin (coconut milk, pineapple juice, and a scoop of ice-cream). I ordered it for the soul purpose of having some dairy to digest my Malarone.

Indian_sweet My coworkers love to bring in Indian sweets to work and I had the opportunity to sample some. The types of Indian sweets I find in Toronto are often cloyingly sweet so I was pleasantly surprised to try some delicious ones at the office. My first day in the office was the first day of work after Diwali. JK treated me to some homemade almond cookies shaped into a ball named Laddoo. The cookie was tender and full of toasty almond flavour. Today, SK brought in sweets for his birthday. I tried a piece of rustic looking pistachio pastry. It was very flaky and fragrant with rosewater. I liked it very much. Only problem is, it's difficult for me to track down the names of all these sweets!

Naughty Angel Cafe

"Prince Town Flair" R.K. Properties, Lane 8, near Meera Nagar Society

Koregaon Park, Pune

Il Fungo Magico

Shop No. 18, Lane 6, Vrindavan Society

Koregaon Park, Pune

Malaka Spice

Malaka Spice Lane, North Main Road

Koregaon Park, Pune

Howling At Night

Ever since my university days in Waterloo, I have a habit of going out at night and by that I don't mean "going out to have fun". I mean I have a tendency to shift my entire schedule a few hours behind so I end up doing most of my errands and chores in the evening. Walking around on empty streets at night is indeed very enjoyable. In a quiet university town like Waterloo and even in Toronto where I go around in my car most of the time, I don't feel unsafe at all. I would avoid suspicious areas and of course stay alert but safety is not a huge issue.

It is a safe neighbourhood where our office is located in Pune. Being sent to work in our international office, I expect to spend a lot of time at work simply because of the increased workload. It did not occur to me that there would be any problem for me to work late. Turns out there is an unexpected twist. My expat coworkers warned me that all those stray dogs that look so docile during the day turn into something fierce at night. I don't doubt them...I can hear howling every night from my hotel room. While the dogs would get out of people's way in daylight, they would get up close to you at night and possibly without good intentions. TG taught me a trick that if I ever find myself in trouble, pick up a rock and make a gesture to throw at the dog. After listening to his wife's concern about his safety when he has to walk home after late nights at work (and TG's much bigger than me), I really have to think twice next time I want to work late in the office. It doesn't help that I'm afraid of dogs too.

Although I've only spent a week here in India, I get a feeling that things I worry about have taken a turn down to an almost primitive level. I worry whether there'll be electricity, hot water in the tap, and now dogs that may attack. Life cerntainly play by different rules here.

Traffic and Blackout

Traffic in India is something to behold. Our office in Pune is situated on a busy main road. At all times of the day, a relentless background noise of honking is the norm. In North America, honking is typically a signal of warning or distress. Over here, honking is merely a way to announce your presense. Cars, rickshaws, motorcycles, bicycles, pedestrians, and the occasional cows all share the barely paved roads at the same time and the right of way is given to the most aggressive. Crossing the street is a true test of courage and requires a keen sense of speed estimate. To the untrained eyes, the street is never clear enough in both directions for safe crossing. However, after some practise, I soon learn to take advantage of the different speed of the vehicles to zigzag my way across the street.

My daily walk between the hotel and the office is mostly uneventful but the different signs and stores along the route appeals to my sense of humour tremendously. For example, everyday, I would walk pass the following places which still give me the giggles every time.

Relapse_lounge

I wonder exactly what do people do at a "Relapse Lounge"?

Dentist

This is a sign outside of a dental office. That tooth looks serene and malicious at the same time.

Colon_hydrotherapy_clinic

Good to know....just in case I ever get the urge to cleanse after work.

Back home, a power failure is always met with much consternation. Here in Pune, it's a way of life. I mentioned briefly before that we have scheduled blackouts and most places are equipped with backup power generators. This evening, I originally planned to have dinner with SS and LM and do my laundry at their flat. However, by the time I got out of the office, the streets were darker than usual and that was when I realized that there was a power failure. I was glad to have my flashlight with me so I made my way back to the hotel and dropped off my laptop and went over to SS's place. I found out from LM that this power failure was actually unexpected (caused by some work done around the city, it appeared). Of course, there would be no laundry tonight.

We decided to meet up with TG and his wife for dinner at The Great Punjab, one of the best (not to mention very fancy) Punjabi restaurant in Pune just across the street. The food was indeed very delicious. We had paneer tikka (my favourite), grilled stuffed mushrooms, mustard green in cream sauce, and another paneer dish in an orange creamy sauce. Of course, all of these were washed down with naan, roti, and beer.

After dinner, on the recommendation of TG and his wife, we walked over to Merlot for their chocolate souffle. Merlot is a very contemporary restaurant serving continental cuisine in setting that can rival any fine dining restaurant in more cosmopolitan cities. I entered the gate to find a courtyard with a single statue of elephant (I'm not up to my knowledge on Hindu gods). Illuminated by moonlight, there stood a 2 story building of dark tinted glass with the maitre d' guarding the tall wooden door to the restaurant. Once inside, I was impressed by the minimalist and stylish interior design. We were seated in the outdoor area where cushioned seats and alcoves where carved from the granite low wall studded with recessed candles. From where we sat, I could see the inside of the restaurant from its floor to ceiling glass wall. There was a bar on one side of the wall and the inside is divided into a lounge and dining area. It's difficult to describe but needless to say, Merlot is one of the best-looking fine dining restaurant I've ever been to (and I've been to many around the globe). The souffle itself was nothing to write home about. It was moderately tall but the inside was entirely molten. The souffle actually left an oily film coating my mouth which I found rather unpleasant. The chocolate flavour was lacking as well. Perhaps I will give this restaurant a try one of these days. Apparently, a celebrity chef acts as a consultant for this place. I'm curious to find out more.

I'm Such A Total Idiot

I was absolutely swamped with work today I thought I had no good stories to tell. Wow, am I ever so wrong.

I started off the day with my by-now-usual breakfast of sweet lassi and plain paratha and got to work at quarter to nine. For the entire day, I was busy with meetings, building my training material, answering support questions (from both India and Toronto), and communicating with the Toronto team for things that I cannot figure out.

Pastry_mango_icecream For a quick bite at lunch, I picked up a variety of pastries (Rs32) from a n